Tag Archives: Medicine in Remote Locations

Day 7

Day SEVEN

Distance Traveled: 19 Km


Day 7 was the toughest day so far.

Editor’s note: Today’s communication was called in by satellite phone so there are no pictures. They will have to wait until Bill once again has email availability.

Photo from Day 5

It snowed all day, from start to finish, really for nine hours.

There were often total white out conditions, and snow all day was really the last thing I needed. The wind was from the south-west, but it was quite warm.

This makes the snow wet, sticky and heavy, making the sled feel about twice the weight it normally does. This makes it harder on the back and the legs, and things start to break down more easily in those conditions.

This makes it even more important to look after the body and work around things.

I covered around 19 Km today, which wasn’t bad, considering the conditions.

I did fall a couple of times on my ass pulling the sled in deep snow and standing on snow-covered ice makes it very hard to get traction sometimes.

I tried using snowshoes, but the conditions are so variable with snowdrifts, ice, and trying to see through the whiteout conditions. There were also other navigation issues, trying to get out around the ice. Trying to go a non-direct route is also a challenge because it’s hard to see where the ice is until you can get close to it. Visibility at times was down to 200 meters, so it was not an easy day’s travel.

We’ve lost a bit of ground, time-wise, but we have to go with the conditions. It’s a great example of how small we are in this big natural world, and we have to adapt to what we get.

Let’s see what tomorrow will bring.
Bill


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Day 6

Day SIX


There is no more email connection so communication will continue using a satellite phone.

Editor’s note: This also means that sending photos is more difficult, but Bill will send them when he can.

Today was a full-on day.
Snow and white-out conditions, making navigation difficult.
Worked my way through ice fields; pulling the sled through snow slows down everything.
Did see some animal tracks; ended up at the end of the day camping in a nice spot on the ice near some trees, protected from the wind.
Making an attempt to find a more direct and energy-saving route.

This is truly a magical place!
Let’s see what tomorrow will bring.
Bill


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Day 5

Day: FIVE


Scellig did not like this particular section also.

 

 

 
Had to make the decision early in the day to chance sticking close to coastline and hopefully find a way through the broken ice or find a way further out.

With the full on white out conditions decided to stick close to the shore.
Fortunately was able to get through.

 
Some time and energy lost travelling through the broken sections but safer.
Today was probably one of the least desirable conditions to travel by foot pulling an all inclusive house,food, fuel and other life’s essentials.
Snowing all day, minus 5, sticky snow,headwind, poor visibility.

The things we do for fun!

 

 

 

Found a slightly exposed and windy campsite near the coastline but on the ice among the rubble.

Best option I could find at 6pm.

 

Let’s see what tomorrow will bring.
Bill


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

 

 

Day 4 – Listvayanka start

Day: 4 

Current Location: Listvayanka

 

 


Camped on night 3 on the edge (literally) of Listvayanka on the ice
In front of a derelict building but in view of a high end hotel complex.

Which of the 3 options would you choose?

Met a Chinese tourist in the morning.

Some hovercrafts on the ice.

Warm, heavy conditions all day.

Travelling through snow up to the last hour.

Camped at a lovely spot on the ice near a dock.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Bill 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Day 3 – Long Day


Day THREE

Current Location: Listvayanka
Distance Traveled: 32.6 KM


Ice Crack

Good visibility, light wind but lots of heavy ploughing through sticky snow..no ice at all today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pressure Cracks

The ice makes for much faster travel..

 
My sled “Scellig” wasn’t so happy either.

 

 

Pressure Cracks

Started out route finding through a section of broken ice.

 

 

 

 

 

Pressure Cracks

Took a chance at staying closer to the shoreline.
It paid off today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Section of Broken Ice

Met a few ice fishermen along the way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Summer cottage Lake Baikal

Walked for 12 hrs today because of the slow progress through the heavy snow.

 

 

 

 

 

Summer cottage Lake Baikal

Summer cottage Lake Baikal

Covered 32.6 km.

Now camped close to Listvayanka.

Wanted to cross the bay and get more protection from the wind.

 

 

The wind has really picked up over the past few hours.
Definitely looking forward to dinner this evening.

 

 

Baikal walk morning light day 3

Saw some attention focusing ice cracks today and some neat ice formations.

 

 

Let’s see what tomorrow brings…

Bill

This is a magical place!

Day TWO 


These longer expeditions require some basic things to survive

Good shelter, food, fuel to melt snow/ice , foot care and attention and a positive attitude

These essentials are interdependent and could make a difference between life and death.

Right, left or straight ahead?

Travelling in a new part of the world requires a lot of dependency on the knowledge and experience of the local people.

Some in the past have ignored this to their detriment.

I am very fortunate to have the support and advice of some great local people from the Baikal area including Anna( friend of Elena) and Eugene.

So far the unleaded petrol is working.. fingers crossed….

Decided against the paint thinner.
No white gas available in this area.

Starting a new day soon…Day 3

Let’s see what today brings….

Bill


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Baikal Walk Day 2

Day TWO

Distance Traveled: 29 Km


Beautiful crisp morning.
A little late starting 9.15 as I get into the rhythm of a new journey.

 

 

Travel was good initially but this recent snow slowed things down a bit for approx 2/3 of the day.
It would be great conditions for kiting if the winds were favourable.

 

Sunset Baikal walk Day2

Nature provided a beautiful sunny day with a light SW wind.

 

 

 

End of walk for Day 2

More work to plough through the fresh snow with a sled.
The light was beautiful again today.
Met some local ice fishermen along the way.

 

Was happy with covering just over 29 km today considering the snow conditions.

Just finished a supper of expedition freeze dried food that expired in 2014!!
Hope it works regardless.

Thanks for following….
Let’s see what tomorrow brings..

Bill


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

DAY 2

Day TWO


Mild at present minus 15.
Little wind .. a gift of nature.
Early Light comes closer to 7.30 am.
Shorter days compared to Greenland and especially Antarctica.
The light here is very special.
Hope to touch base this evening.
Thanks to all of you who are following this journey in such a magical place.

Bill

 

 


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

DAY 1

Day: ONE

Current Location: 
Zultuk

Distance Traveled: 
28 km


Started out the day with some fresh snow in Irkutsk and treacherous roads over the passes to Zultuk, the southern end of the lake.
The weather and visibility improved as the day progressed.
Covered 28 km despite the late start, heavy snow and heavy sled.
Just finished supper and settled down for the night in a quiet bay.

 

Let’s see what tomorrow brings!!

Best wishes,
Bill


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Irkutsk 5am -6c light snow

Warm this am with light snow.

Baikal walk / Kultuk starting point

It has been a warmer than average winter here so far with a recent dump of snow
The warmer temperatures over the next few days are welcome except for the fact there will be more drag on my 75 kg sled and tougher to pull especially with more weight at the start of the trip.

Baikal walk Kultuk starting point

Good excuse to eat lots over the next few days.
Hope to consume around 5000 Calories/ day.
Guilt free chocolate consumption is a big part of long expeditions.
Problem is stopping when one gets home!

So happy to be among the Lake Baikal people and culture.

Hobnail Boots

Just screwed studs into my boots and thinking of Shackleton and team wearing hob nail boots to cross the glaciers of South Georgia to get to Stromness.

Driving from Irkutsk to Kultuk at the bottom of the lake in a short while.

Then the walk northwards begins.

Best wishes to you all.

Bill

 



To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Greetings from Irkutsk!

Irkutsk, Siberia February 26th 2017

Arrived from Moscow around 8.20 am..no bags or sled..However all showed up on the next Aeroflot flight from Moscow.

 

 
Met Eugene at the airport and while waiting for the delayed baggage did a tour of Irkutsk.

 

 

 

 

 
It was a special celebration of Masleniza today in Irkutsk celebrating the transition from winter into spring.
Some early pagan rituals are carried out.
It reminded me of Wren’s day in Dingle.
It was a very emotional time passing through the village of Anascaul, Co Kerry last Friday night on my way to Baikal.
Lots of thoughts of Tom Crean and the many Irish who left its shores on their way to explore many parts of the world.
I thought also of Dervla Murphy getting on her bike in Lismore in the 1960s and cycling to Delhi with such a great spirit, little money and an enduring desire for travel and adventure.
This upcoming trip has lots of uncertainties as the adventure begins.
It’s not about breaking records, being the fastest or the slowest , it’s more about creating records of life experience and passing the knowledge onto others and learning from others.
It is more about building bridges, not walls.

The adventure begins on the ice tomorrow.

 

Irkutsk 

To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Baikal : A walk on the wild side.

In an attempt to further highlight the health care needs of communities living in remote places across the globe, Dr Bill Hanlon is planning a 700 km, unsupported, solo expedition on ice from the southern tip to the northern tip of Lake Baikal, Siberia, Russia in late February 2017.

Lake Baikal is 640 km long, 80 km wide, is the world’s largest (by volume), oldest (25-30 million years) and deepest (5387 ft) freshwater lake.
It contains 20% of the world’s unfrozen, surface fresh water and is surrounded by beautiful mountains.
The walk will likely be over 700 km as navigation will require travelling around large areas of broken ice, pressure ridges, ice cracks/ pools etc. and the challenges of a frequent, powerful headwind.

Dr Bill will be travelling very simply with a small tent, basic food, fuel, and clothing; all being pulled by a sled on the ice and snow.
Lake Baikal was formed as part of an ancient rift valley with a long crescent shape and a surface area of 31,722 square km. The lake is geothermally very active with a resultant rich biodiversity of flora and fauna, hosting more than 1,000 species of plants and 2,500 species of animals, many of which are unique to this area.

The Baikal area has a long history of human habitation with the Han dynasty defeating the Xiongnu in the 2nd century BC and the Kurykans (6th century AD) preceding the Buryats and Yakuts.

The diversity of people and cultures in the area parallels the biodiversity of it’s natural world.

The confluence, interaction and coexistence of shamanic, buddhist and christian communities in one area makes Baikal very unique.

This upcoming “pilgrimage” is mainly about connecting with these remote communities, sharing and developing a better understanding of their health practices + needs and learning more from their unique spiritual and healing connection to the natural world.

Basic Health International would like to thank the following for their support on this adventure:

Keith & Jeri Michalak and the entire Icespike family

Mink Hollow Media, Ltd.

Mountain Equipment Coop

 

To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Medicine in the High Pamir

snap01846“As a teenager growing up in small town Ireland in the 1970’s, I was fascinated by the adventures of Marco Polo and the 13th century caravans of explorers, traders, and pilgrims who traveled the Silk Road linking Europe with Asia. Many of these caravans crossed the high passes of the Parimir and Hundi Kush ranges, traversing between present day Pakistan and Afghanistan.

I dreamed of one day traveling part of this route into such areas as the Hunza Valley of northern Pakistan, and the Wakhan Valley and Parmir range of northeast Afghanistan. In spring/summer of 2014, I visited both regions.

Read the rest of the article in the Spring 2015 issue of the Alpine Club of Canada‘s Gazette.

On Our Way

….. And then it was time to return home.

Clouds over Thapopdan massif, above village of Passu, Hunza Valley, Karakoram range, Pakistan

We reviewed our whole trip and discussed the implementation of our recommendations.

We met with the KADO solar panel project manager and donated a solar lantern for their review and modification. These excellent LED lanterns were designed and donated by Faith and Anthony Harkham, Canmore, Alberta, Canada. We are very indebted to them for their design work and donation.

Despite the threatening clouds and rain the following morning , we managed to get a flight back to Islamabad from Gilgit…which saved us many hours travel on the KKH and closer to our departure city.

It was a very productive and enjoyable trip. It would not have been possible without the great support and hospitality of the people of Hunza !

I would especially like to thank Imran, Zulfi, Mubeen, Ashraf, Alam Jan and the rest of the KADO staff for their tireless support during our visit and being responsible for making it a success.

July 12th (Saturday) Yashpirt Summer Pasture

Mobile health clinic conducted by Dr Bill Hanlon, Basic Health International, for shepherds based at Yashpert pasture, Batura Glacier, near Passu, Hunza Valley, Karakoram range, PakistanEarly in the morning of July 12th we set off from Passu to the Yashpirt summer pasture on the Batura Glacier (fourth longest glacier in the Karakorum).

Our team included Imran, 2 porters Ghulam Haideo and Ameer Ahmed Jan, Pat and myself.

Our objective was to hike up the lateral moraine above Passu, cross the Batura glacier, and hike along the northern edge ascending above the glacier to the shepherd’s summer camp of Yashpirt at 3302m.

In spring, residents of Passu area travel with their goats/sheep and yaks to the summer pastures of Yashpirt. They return to Passu in the autumn moving their animals to winter pasture lower down.

Our focus was to do health assessments and health education with the shepherds in the pasture.

We started out early to avoid some of the mid-day heat. We had nice temperatures as we ascended the moraine. The temperatures increased as we crossed the broken up, convoluted glacier and increased further as we hiked along its northern edge. We had some relief from the intermittent shade of the lush wild rose bushes, juniper, willow and tamarisk as we moved closer to Yashpirt. It should be noted that there is no easy access to potable water from the trail head until close to Yashpirt. In the late afternoon we ascended to the juniper protected Yashpirt summer pasture to be greeted by two shepherds. They had just come down from the high country with their 2000 sheep and goats. We had a cup of chai before they put their animals into their nightime safe enclosure to protect them from predators. The main predators in this area are foxes, wolves and snow leopards.

This year the residents of Passu decided to delay their move up to the summer pasture until a week later because of the weather.

We did health assessments on those shepherds that were there and discussed some of the potential health issues associated with people living close to their animals.

We discussed reducing or preferably eliminating adding salt to chai and increasing daily water intake. We discussed the greenhouse idea and solar powered electric fences to avoid overgrazing.

We camped on a beautiful grassy area looking across at the upper Batura glacier, Batura Peak and surrounding ice floes.

We were treated to the powerful sounds of calving ice from the glacier throughout the night.

We donated a solar lantern and Pat donated his sleeping bag before we descended towards Passu the following morning.

It was a beautiful hike out with spectacular views down to the Passu Valley.

The following day we visited the Aga Khan Health Centre in Gulmit. At present there are no doctors there.(there had been two doctors there the last time I visited).They have a midwife(from Chipursan) and an LHV currently working there. Their e-health program is currently inactive at present. They are currently trying to negotiate with the KADO IT Centre to share some of their internet capacity.

Apparently there are currently 2 doctors stationed at the government hospital in Gulmit.

We then crossed the lake on a nice sunny day heading towards Karimibad.

The lake is still a busy place and perhaps a bit less dusty than in the past.

We had a very productive meeting with the staff at the KADO headquarters in Aliabad prior to our departure to Gilgit.