Author Archives: Katrin Becker

Day 11 Continued

Day Eleven, Continued
Current Location: Just before the straight separating
Olkhon Island from the mainland.


Day 11 Sunrise

Day 11 Ice Cracks

This place continues to amaze!

The constant cracking and explosive sounds reflect the continued dynamic nature below the ice.

Day 11 First bit of blue ice seen on the afternoon

The difference travelling on blue ice is like night and day.
Scellig feels much happier also.
Hope it continues…

 

 

 

The sound of the Hobnails on ice remind me of the magical footsteps of Irish Dancers such as David Geaney and colleagues on the floors of the west Kerry halls and pubs

Day 11 Finally some patches of blue ice

Worked hard to find a camp spot on the ice closer to some cliffs to avoid being very exposed in this open, windy patch of water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As a result stopped walking around 6.15 pm after starting at 8 am.

Day 11-12 Scellig on lunch break

One challenge is to get close to land and avoid open water area before light fades for the day.
One is much limited here with darkness coming around 7 pm.
It usually takes about 1 hour to set up tent etc and another 30 mins to melt snow etc.
With camping on the ice , ice anchors are needed which takes a lot more time than snow pegs etc.
The reverse needs to be done breaking down camp each morning.

 

It’s amazing how simple life can be with spending 8-9 hrs each day seeking out ice patches to walk on to reduce the load

That’s one reason why time efficiency is so important.

Hobnails and Scellig

Let’s see what tomorrow brings. 

Bill

Day 11

Day Eleven
Current Location: Just before the straight separating
Olkhon Island from the mainland.


Signs of Icefishers’ presence.

Editor’s note: there is no email reception today, so we have an audio report (broken into 2 parts b/c of upload limits) and a few pictures from yesterday.

Stay tuned for more.

 

 

 

The Simple Life in Baikal

Let’s see what tomorrow brings. 

Bill

Day 10 Continued…

Day TEN, Continued


Most evenings I have camped close to shore but yet on the ice.
This is for more protection from the winds and general safety.

Day 10 Evening Camp

Tonight Hobnails and Scellig will camp further out because of travel route to reduce spending another 30 -40 minutes travelling closer to shore.

 

 

 

 

As mentioned earlier, this is a very dynamic geothermal place.
 

Day 10 Broken Ice

Lots going on beneath the lake at the site of at least 3 tectonic plates.
There is constant activity going on beneath the ice.
Camping on the ice takes a certain amount of adjustment.

 

 

 

Day 10 Snow Covered Ice

There is constant cracking and whomfing not unlike the sound of unstable snow whomfing at times of higher avalanche risk.
The whomfing is usually followed by an extended cracking sound that can travel quite a distance. The first time I heard it , it scared the shit out of me.

 

Day 10 Cool ice crystals on icy patches

At this point I have got a bit more used to it and embrace it as part of this special, unique dynamic place.

Editor’s note: Try HERE (FaceBook)  for a recording of singing ice, or HERE for another example, with some explanation.

 

 

 

 

How amazing snow temporarily shows our presence just like animal tracks

Met a group of Russian tourists this afternoon travelling in 4 wheel drives.
It reminded me of meeting the occasional jeep while travelling in the Gobi in Mongolia many years ago.
By coincidence most of the jeeps in the Gobi were Russian made which makes complete sense.
 
That’s it for now.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings. 

Bill

Day 10, Part One

Day TEN


Day 9 Sunrise

Another beautiful sunrise!
It is such a privilege to be here on the ice.
The place has a true wonder of nature.

 

 
Today was sunny, good visibility, minus 28c starting out.
Cool stiff NE wind.

Day 10 Morning Start

The sunrise and clear skies lifted Hobnails and Scellig’s spirits no end.

 

 

 

 

 

Day 10 Start

This environment requires frequent adjustment of layers/ equipment to react quickly to changing conditions in order to survive.

 

 

 
To continue….

Let’s see what tomorrow brings. 

Bill

First Intermission

First Intermission
Current Location: Buguldeika N 52 31.785 E 106 02.979
Distance Travelled: 200 Km


For those interested in distances, Hobnails and Scellig have travelled approximately 200 km so far. ..
Progress has been slower than hoped but the conditions have been tougher than normal here with lots more snow and warmer conditions.
Have seen no sections of blue ice yet.
Generally there is more snow in the northern part of the lake so I guess we will have to see how things go.
Regardless, It is great to be here in this magical place.

Bye for now

Day 8 Skin wears down with temps – exposure – slower healing

Day 09 j Drying out sleeping bag

Day 8 ice formations

Day 8

 

 

Day 9

Day 9 AM

After a very difficult day yesterday ploughing slowly through lots of fresh snow in white out conditions Scellig and I were treated to an amazing red sunrise across the ice!

 

 

 

Day 9 b Start

What a great joy and privilege to be here!
Beautiful sunny am, light south easterly wind and great visibility.

 

 

 

Day 9 c Ice Formation

Cooler temps which Scellig and I appreciated as there was a bit more glide at least earlier in the day.

 

 

 

 

Day 9 d lots of broken ice between Scellig and Hobnail boots and where we want to go

As we got close to noon all this fresh snow became more sticky and less friendly.
Walking through some 15-20cm snow in places.

 

 

 

 

Day 9 e Ice Formation

Let’s see what tomorrow brings. 

Bill

Day 8, Part Two

Day: 8
Current Location: Buguldeika N 52 31.785 E 106 02.979


Here are a few more images from Day 8

 

Day 8 Coming into camp

Day 8 Afternoon

Day 8 Lots of this in afternoon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Bill

Day 8

Day: 8
Current Location: Buguldeika N 52 31.785 E 106 02.979


Finished a long day at a slightly exposed area near the village of Buguldeika

Looking forward to dinner and a good rest..it’s been a long day….

Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Bill

Day 8 Start

day 8 Artistry on the ice

Day 8 Sunrise

Day 8 Baikal March morning

Day 8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 7 Photos

Day Seven
Distance Traveled: 19 Km


This is what Day Seven looked like:

Day 7 Magical rock formations with lots of energy

Day 7 camp

Day 7 Typical conditions for most of the day.

Day 7 Start

Day 7 Beautiful Island – Reminds me of Scellig

Day 7 Baikal inukshuk


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Day 6 Photos

Day Six


This is what Day Six was like….

Day 6 Lots of ice and rock sections to negotiate as take chance to stick closer to shoreline because of wind and poor visibility

Day 6 More Whiteout Conditions

Day 6 Cool Rock Cave

Persistent snow whiteout conditions

Day 6 Start

Lots of tricky navigation

Day 6 Hard work for the hobnail boots and Scellig

Day 6 Beautiful snow covered forest

Day 6 Cool ice artistry a gift from Baikal

Day 7

Day SEVEN

Distance Traveled: 19 Km


Day 7 was the toughest day so far.

Editor’s note: Today’s communication was called in by satellite phone so there are no pictures. They will have to wait until Bill once again has email availability.

Photo from Day 5

It snowed all day, from start to finish, really for nine hours.

There were often total white out conditions, and snow all day was really the last thing I needed. The wind was from the south-west, but it was quite warm.

This makes the snow wet, sticky and heavy, making the sled feel about twice the weight it normally does. This makes it harder on the back and the legs, and things start to break down more easily in those conditions.

This makes it even more important to look after the body and work around things.

I covered around 19 Km today, which wasn’t bad, considering the conditions.

I did fall a couple of times on my ass pulling the sled in deep snow and standing on snow-covered ice makes it very hard to get traction sometimes.

I tried using snowshoes, but the conditions are so variable with snowdrifts, ice, and trying to see through the whiteout conditions. There were also other navigation issues, trying to get out around the ice. Trying to go a non-direct route is also a challenge because it’s hard to see where the ice is until you can get close to it. Visibility at times was down to 200 meters, so it was not an easy day’s travel.

We’ve lost a bit of ground, time-wise, but we have to go with the conditions. It’s a great example of how small we are in this big natural world, and we have to adapt to what we get.

Let’s see what tomorrow will bring.
Bill


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Day 6

Day SIX


There is no more email connection so communication will continue using a satellite phone.

Editor’s note: This also means that sending photos is more difficult, but Bill will send them when he can.

Today was a full-on day.
Snow and white-out conditions, making navigation difficult.
Worked my way through ice fields; pulling the sled through snow slows down everything.
Did see some animal tracks; ended up at the end of the day camping in a nice spot on the ice near some trees, protected from the wind.
Making an attempt to find a more direct and energy-saving route.

This is truly a magical place!
Let’s see what tomorrow will bring.
Bill


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Day 5

Day: FIVE


Scellig did not like this particular section also.

 

 

 
Had to make the decision early in the day to chance sticking close to coastline and hopefully find a way through the broken ice or find a way further out.

With the full on white out conditions decided to stick close to the shore.
Fortunately was able to get through.

 
Some time and energy lost travelling through the broken sections but safer.
Today was probably one of the least desirable conditions to travel by foot pulling an all inclusive house,food, fuel and other life’s essentials.
Snowing all day, minus 5, sticky snow,headwind, poor visibility.

The things we do for fun!

 

 

 

Found a slightly exposed and windy campsite near the coastline but on the ice among the rubble.

Best option I could find at 6pm.

 

Let’s see what tomorrow will bring.
Bill


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

 

 

Day 4 – Listvayanka start

Day: 4 

Current Location: Listvayanka

 

 


Camped on night 3 on the edge (literally) of Listvayanka on the ice
In front of a derelict building but in view of a high end hotel complex.

Which of the 3 options would you choose?

Met a Chinese tourist in the morning.

Some hovercrafts on the ice.

Warm, heavy conditions all day.

Travelling through snow up to the last hour.

Camped at a lovely spot on the ice near a dock.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Bill 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


To see the full photo gallery from this trip, look here.

Day 3 – Long Day


Day THREE

Current Location: Listvayanka
Distance Traveled: 32.6 KM


Ice Crack

Good visibility, light wind but lots of heavy ploughing through sticky snow..no ice at all today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pressure Cracks

The ice makes for much faster travel..

 
My sled “Scellig” wasn’t so happy either.

 

 

Pressure Cracks

Started out route finding through a section of broken ice.

 

 

 

 

 

Pressure Cracks

Took a chance at staying closer to the shoreline.
It paid off today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Section of Broken Ice

Met a few ice fishermen along the way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Summer cottage Lake Baikal

Walked for 12 hrs today because of the slow progress through the heavy snow.

 

 

 

 

 

Summer cottage Lake Baikal

Summer cottage Lake Baikal

Covered 32.6 km.

Now camped close to Listvayanka.

Wanted to cross the bay and get more protection from the wind.

 

 

The wind has really picked up over the past few hours.
Definitely looking forward to dinner this evening.

 

 

Baikal walk morning light day 3

Saw some attention focusing ice cracks today and some neat ice formations.

 

 

Let’s see what tomorrow brings…

Bill